A touching moment from the HBO movie “Won’t You Be My Neighbor?” about Fred Rogers shows the importance of creating quiet spaces. He was trying to get away from loud media aimed at children and overstimulation. But when I stepped into Kumiko Bar in Chicago, I felt a similar calm. Founded by Julia Momose (GreenRiver), Kara and Noah Sandoval, and chef Maria Russell of Oriole, this Japanese cocktail bar and restaurant impresses with its measured pace and care.
The eight-seat omakase bar Kumiko, located in the center of the restaurant, allows guests to see the careful work of the kitchen through intricately carved wooden curtains. A month before our visit, we made reservations at the bar to enjoy omakase for $130. During this evening, Momose and her team offered a series of Japanese appetizers paired with sake and customized cocktails.
“Do you prefer bright and citrusy? Bitter or spicy?” the carefully dressed bartender asked as we sat down. His warm service encouraged me to try something new, just as I sometimes trust baristas to make drink choices.
First, we enjoyed the nigiri. Each piece was expertly prepared and emphasized Japanese cuisine in all its glory. The accompanying sake perfectly complemented the dishes, giving them new flavors. But I was most impressed by Momose’s cocktail selection, especially her woody citrus sudachi shochu with tonic, sage, and kumquat.
The following dishes amazed us with a wealth of flavors and textures. Each course turned out to be a delicate masterpiece that was a delight. My favorite dish was the sunny, frothy flavor of the madai with charred edges sitting atop a seaweed-scented sabayon.
The last course is a miniature toast with caramelized milk and fermented honey ice cream, topped with fragrant white truffle shavings. This dessert evoked real emotions in me, reminding me of the Sunday breakfasts of my childhood.
As we returned to the lobby, we felt satisfied and reassured after this exquisite evening. Kumiko enchants its guests with its luxurious atmosphere and delicious food.